The Minkyville sewing room / First project
Sew your first minky blanket.
Make a small lap blanket with a cotton front, a soft minky back, and a neat turned edge. This project uses two rectangles, straight seams, and no batting or separate binding.
Instructional illustrations generated for Minkyville; fabric appearance is illustrative.
Plan before you cut
One manageable size.
| Part | Measurement |
|---|---|
| Finished blanket | Approximately 35 × 43 inches (89 × 109 cm) |
| Cotton front | Cut one 36 × 44-inch rectangle after preparation. |
| Minky back | Cut one 36 × 44-inch rectangle after preparation. |
| Joining seam | ½ inch from each raw edge |
| Turning opening | 8 inches, centered on one short edge |
| Final topstitching | ¼ inch from the finished edge |
The size calculation is 36 − ½ − ½ = 35 inches wide, and 44 − ½ − ½ = 43 inches long. Fabric thickness, seam accuracy, relaxation, and washing can change the final measurement slightly. Use the inch measurements throughout construction rather than mixing rounded metric conversions.
How much fabric to buy
Plan on 1½ yards of quilting cotton and 1½ yards of short-pile minky—3 yards in total. Each piece must still provide at least 36 inches of usable width and 44 inches of usable length after preparation. Usable width excludes selvages, unprinted borders, and damaged edges.
One and a half yards is 54 inches long, leaving a nominal 10 inches beyond the 44-inch cut. That extra length is for squaring and preparation losses; measure the actual fabric before cutting. Buy more if expected shrinkage, a large motif placement, or matching a directional print needs more room. If fabric is sold only in whole-yard increments, round the amount up to the next available increment.
Keep the design upright. This layout places the 36-inch side across the fabric and the 44-inch side along its length. Check that the print faces the way you want in that orientation. The front and back are the same cut size; the larger backing margins used for a conventionally quilted project do not apply here.
Set yourself up
Gather a few reliable tools.
- Quilting cotton and short-pile minky in the yardage listed in this tutorial; choose a simple print or solid for easier alignment.
- A home sewing machine, a compatible walking foot or suitable dual feed, and its manual.
- A fresh 90/14 stretch needle as a starting point, plus polyester sewing thread suited to the needle and machine.
- Pins suitable for knits or sewing clips, a hand-sewing needle, and a removable fabric marker tested on an offcut.
- A ruler, cutting mat and sharp rotary cutter or fabric scissors, plus a blunt point turner.
Test a 3–3.5 mm straight stitch on your actual cotton-and-minky offcuts. Try both the ½-inch seam and a folded-edge topstitch sample. Check both sides for skipped stitches, loops, and ripples before continuing. The walking foot helps the two layers feed together; install and use it according to your machine manual. [1][2]
This tutorial is for the two layers listed above, without batting, trim, or an added border. Those changes affect bulk and construction. Find broader options in the sewing and quilting reference guide.
Step 1 / Prepare & cut
Start with two relaxed rectangles.
- Read both fabrics’ care instructions. Prewash and dry the cotton as its instructions allow, before measuring the final cut. Prepare the minky according to its own care instructions. Let the fabric rest flat.
- Stroke the minky to find its nap—the direction the pile lies. Gently check its stretch. Decide which edge will be the blanket’s top, checking the cotton print separately.
- Remove unusable selvages and borders. Cut the cotton to 36 × 44 inches. Cut the minky separately to the same size in a single relaxed layer, with the fabric fully supported on the table.
- Mark the top of each piece on its wrong side with a tested removable mark. Save offcuts for your stitch test. Remove loose cut-edge fuzz.

Check before moving on: both rectangles measure the same size when relaxed, their corners are square, and the designs face the intended top edge. Do not stretch a smaller piece to make it fit.
Step 2 / Layer & sew
Put the pretty sides together.
- Lay the minky plush side up. Put the cotton on it printed side down, matching the marked tops. The right sides touch; you should see the cotton’s wrong side from above.
- Match the corners and the center of each edge. Smooth the pieces without pulling. Pin frequently around the perimeter, adding more support wherever the layers shift. Hand-basting inside the seam allowance is useful if pins or clips are not enough.
- Mark an 8-inch opening in the middle of the bottom 36-inch edge. Mark both ends clearly. This opening stays unsewn for turning.
- With cotton on top and minky against the feed dogs, start at one end of the opening. Secure the seam with a few reverse stitches if your foot and machine permit them. Sew ½ inch from the raw edge, removing each pin or clip before it reaches the foot.
- At each corner, stop ½ inch before the next raw edge with the needle down. Lift the foot, pivot, lower the foot, and continue. Stop at the other end of the opening and secure the seam. Keep the project supported; let the machine feed it.

Check before trimming: examine the entire seam on both sides. Both fabrics must be caught in the stitching, with no folded tucks. Repair any missed section now.
Step 3 / Trim & turn
Reduce corner bulk gently.
- At each sewn corner, trim away a small triangle of excess seam allowance diagonally. Leave a few millimeters of fabric beyond the stitching. Do not cut the stitch line, and leave the opening’s ½-inch allowances intact.
- Reach through the opening and bring the blanket right side out a little at a time. Support the seam ends so the opening does not tear.
- Use your fingers or a blunt point turner to ease out the corners. Do not force a sharp tool through the fabric. A softly rounded corner is normal with plush layers.
- Work around the edges with your fingers to bring the seam to the edge. Lay the blanket flat and smooth it without stretching. Avoid direct ironing of the minky pile.

Step 4 / Close & topstitch
Give the edge a neat finish.
- At the opening, fold both raw edges ½ inch inward. Line up the folded edges with the sewn edge on either side. Pin, clip, or hand-baste the folds together.
- Keep the cotton side up. Topstitch a continuous line ¼ inch from the finished edge around all four sides. Sew slowly through the extra folded layers at the opening, making sure the stitching catches both folded allowances.
- At each corner, stop ¼ inch before the next finished edge with the needle down, pivot, and continue. Secure the beginning and end of the stitching using a method suitable for your machine and foot.
- Remove temporary basting and check the opening from both sides. If an edge escaped the topstitching, close that section with a neat hand ladder stitch or carefully resew it.

This small, two-layer blanket has a perimeter finish and no interior quilting. If you want batting or a quilted finish, plan that construction separately and follow the batting’s quilting requirements.
Before you use or gift it
Your finished-blanket check.
- The turning opening is fully closed, and both layers are caught all the way around.
- All pins, clips, and temporary basting are removed; loose threads are trimmed.
- The blanket lies comfortably flat without a stretched, wavy edge.
- Any removable markings are removed according to their instructions.
- Care instructions follow the most restrictive requirements of the two fabrics. Avoid high heat and direct ironing of the pile; do not assume every minky finish has the same drying instructions.
Add a care note if you give the blanket as a gift. Keep your stitch-test offcut and write down the settings that worked.
Technique references
Original Minkyville project instructions and cutting calculations, prepared November 2026. The illustrations show the construction sequence. Make a sample with your actual fabrics before sewing the blanket.
- BERNINA: Sewing with Minky—Tips and Tricks — fabric handling, stitch length, needle and feeding guidance.
- SCHMETZ: Stretch Needle — needle suitability for elastic knits.